Christian Dior | Resort 2018
For Resort 2018, Dior’s artistic director Maria Grazia Chiuri went to the archives, where she came across the house founder’s Lascaux collection of 1951, inspired by the ancient cave paintings discovered in southwestern France a decade earlier. “For me, I found it close to L.A.,” she said of Monsieur Dior’s designs. “You think L.A. and you think Hollywood, Oscars, the red carpet, but honestly I feel people love this place because you feel in contact with the natural elements.” The collection was presented May 11th in the Upper Las Virgenes Canyon Open Space Preserve in Calabasas California.
Chiuri reproduced the Lascaux sketches as a silk and raffia jacquard used on New Look skirts and ponchos, as a print on a softer cotton shirtwaist dress, and as fur intarsias. She conjured more than just spirit animals. Chief among her other interests this season were a Georgia O’Keeffe exhibition she saw at the Brooklyn Museum and a collaboration with Vicki Noble, the creator of the Motherpeace feminist tarot deck.
From her start at Dior, Chiuri has linked magic with femininity and feminism. Here, she went direct to the source, printing T-shirts with Noble’s tarot illustrations or painting them on the back of leather Perfectos. That human touch is the charm of Chiuri’s Dior. And, of course, Monsieur Dior was a lover of the tarot. As for O’Keeffe, milliner Stephen Jones’s parson’s hats were dead ringers for the topper the artist wore, and a double-face cashmere coat in black with white arabesques evoked her famous ram’s head paintings. Coats in the waisted, midi-length silhouette so associated with O’Keeffe were among the show’s subtlest and chicest pieces. Bead-embroidered easy denim looks numbered among the other highlights, along with several embellished ethereal prairie dresses.
With the color and pattern and the spectacular sunset, the show had a beautiful backdrop that only mother nature could deliver. In an interview, Chiuri stressed the importance of forward momentum and lightness: “If you feel too much of the history, you get stuck in a box.”
Images & Info Getty & Vogue